So this week was the pilgrimage to El Rocio, a small pueblo in southeast Huelva. I originally was under the impression that this was only a big deal for the people of Andalucía but I was recently corrected that it is in fact a big deal for all of Spain and every a few people here and there internationally. Someone told me they knew a few Germans, Norwegians and Frenchmen making the trek this year. On the way back from Algerias to Seville on Sunday we saw out our window the line of carriages transporting people to El Rocio. I guess over the weekend Seville had their procession and parties celebrating the pilgrimage while the festivities didn’t start in Valverde until Wednesday. That’s probably due to the proximity of Valverde to El Rocio. The Valverdian people start the walk on Wednesday morning, stop over in Palma for the night and then arrive to El Rocio late Thursday night. Once they get there they drink heavily and enjoy themselves.
I was aware of this festival early on when I arrived to Spain but I wasn’t terribly interested in attending or going to El Rocio myself. Now that I’ve gotten the chance to witness the procession I have a new respect for it. It was a lot like Feria in that the women wear the flamenco dresses and the men wear the suites, but instead of heels both men and women wear leather boots, you know the kind that my town is FAMOUS for. Also it is normal for children to miss a week of school in order to walk with their families to El Rocio. It sounds a lot like the Amish in that when it’s time for harvest the kids drop out of school in order to help their families. I really enjoyed spotting my kids in the procession and in the crowd. It was like a real life Where’s Waldo? The best-represented grade in the procession was by far primero. I was really glad our entire school got to watch the parade. The high schools this year decided not to take off time in order to let the students and teachers watch the procession so Corrie and Kate didn’t get to see it. One of the high school students that Christen tutors was really upset about missing El Rocio this year. I can’t think of anything in American culture to compare El Rocio to, it’s just so unique to Spain.
This was my third and I think its safe to say last parade/procession of Spain. As a recap, my first one was in Seville for Three Kings where I got pelted repeatedly with hard candy, the second one was in Cadiz for Carnival in the freezing cold, and the third was in Valverde for El Rocio where I got to see my students all dressed up. Random fact, Christen has been with me for every parade. I know I’ve said it before but I’ll say it again, I’ve attended more parades here in Spain then I think I ever will in America.
I’m not sure if you checked out the link I put in the other posting but people walk to El Rocio in Hermandad’s or Brotherhoods. Bigger cities like Seville have multiple Hermandad's but a small pueblo like Valverde only has one, El Hermandad de Valverde. What makes this even more special is that Pocho’s father founded this brotherhood in 1935. Her family really is modern day celebrities in Valverde. I’m quite honored to know her so well, it’s like being friends with the Queen. Since Pocho’s father is no longer alive, Pocho’s mother is given the honor each year of carrying the staff of the brotherhood and leading the procession out of Valverde (I have a really good picture of Pocho and her mom in my photo album). I know that this festival is very religious but it’s kind of hard not to get really into even if you’re not Catholic.
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